When examining gold jewelry, those tiny stamps and markings might seem like mysterious hieroglyphics. Yet these small engravings contain valuable information about your item’s composition, origin, and authenticity. As someone who’s spent years in the Dallas precious metals industry, I’ve helped countless customers decode these important markings and understand exactly what they possess.

This comprehensive guide will help you decipher the language of gold markings, whether you’re evaluating a family heirloom, considering a purchase, or preparing to sell gold items.

The Fundamentals of Gold Purity Markings

The most common and important gold markings indicate purity—the percentage of pure gold in an item.

Karat Markings: The American Standard

In the United States, gold purity is primarily indicated using the karat system, marked with a number followed by “K” or “KT”:

24K – 99.9% pure gold (typically too soft for jewelry)
22K – 91.7% pure gold
18K – 75.0% pure gold
14K – 58.3% pure gold
10K – 41.7% pure gold

The lower the karat number, the less pure gold and the more alloying metals (like silver, copper, or zinc) are present. While 10K is the minimum that can legally be marketed as gold in the US, you’ll occasionally find 9K items in the Dallas market, particularly in older or imported pieces.

Millesimal Fineness: The International System

Outside North America, gold purity is commonly expressed in parts per thousand, indicated by a three-digit number:

999 – 24K (99.9% pure gold)
916 – 22K (91.6% pure gold)
750 – 18K (75.0% pure gold)
585 – 14K (58.5% pure gold)
417 – 10K (41.7% pure gold)
375 – 9K (37.5% pure gold)

These numbers represent the gold content in parts per thousand. For example, “750” means 750 parts gold per 1000 parts total metal, or 75% gold.

Mixed Marking Systems

It’s not uncommon to find items, particularly those that have circulated internationally, bearing both karat and millesimal markings. For instance, an 18K ring might be stamped with both “18K” and “750”, providing the same information in different systems.

According to the World Gold Council, these standardized marking systems were developed to provide consumers with transparent information about what they’re purchasing.

Origin and Manufacturer Markings

Beyond purity, gold items often bear marks indicating their origin, manufacturer, or designer.

Maker’s Marks

These stamps identify the company or artisan who created the piece:

Often include initials, logos, or registered trademarks
May be accompanied by copyright symbols
Provide provenance and sometimes affect value
Help in authenticating designer or branded items

In Dallas, we frequently see maker’s marks from prominent American manufacturers like Tiffany & Co. (marked “T & Co.”), David Yurman, or Lagos, as well as international luxury brands like Cartier, Bulgari, and Mikimoto.

Country of Origin Stamps

Many countries require gold items to be stamped with marks indicating where they were manufactured or assayed:

British hallmarks – Complex systems including an assay office mark, date letter, and maker’s mark
Italian marks – Often include “Italy” or “750 Italy” for 18K gold
Mexican silver and gold – Usually stamped “Mexico” or “Mex” alongside purity
Asian makers – Chinese and Hong Kong pieces often have character stamps alongside Western-style numbers

In the Dallas market, we see a particularly diverse range of origin marks due to our international population and Texas’s strong trade relationships with Mexico and Asian nations.

Assay Office Marks

In many countries, official government or guild assay offices verify gold purity and stamp items accordingly:

British assay marks – Lion (London), Anchor (Birmingham), Rose (Sheffield)
Swiss hallmarks – Often include a distinctive “head of Helvetia” mark
French hallmarks – Eagle’s head for 18K gold
Russian hallmarks – Often feature a hammer and sickle from Soviet-era pieces

While less common in American-made pieces, assay marks are frequently found on European and Asian gold items circulating in the Dallas market.

Special Marks and Terminology

Beyond basic purity and origin stamps, gold items may feature additional markings with specific meanings.

Gold-Filled and Gold-Plated Markings

Not all gold-colored items contain significant gold. These markings indicate limited gold content:

Gold-Filled (GF)

Marked as “1/20 12KGF” or similar
The fraction (1/20) indicates that 1/20th of the item’s weight is gold
The karat number (12K) indicates the purity of that gold layer
Items must contain at least 1/20th gold by weight to be labeled gold-filled

Gold-Plated (GP)

Marked as “GP,” “G.P.,” or “Gold Plated”
Indicates a microscopically thin layer of gold over base metal
Usually less than 0.5% of the item’s weight is gold
Sometimes marked with expected longevity (e.g., “20 microns”)

Rolled Gold Plate (RGP)

Similar to gold-filled but typically with a thinner layer
Often marked as “RGP” alongside karat and ratio information
Common in vintage watch cases and eyeglass frames

Decorator Gold Markings

Some items are marketed with terms suggesting gold content when very little or none is present:

Gold Electroplate – Extremely thin gold layer applied through electrochemical process
Gold Wash – Minimal gold applied primarily for color
Gold Tone or Gold Colored – Contains no actual gold, simply gold-colored
HGE (Heavy Gold Electroplate) – Thicker than standard electroplate, but still minimal gold

These items typically have very little intrinsic gold value regardless of their appearance.

Regional Variations in Gold Markings

Gold marking systems vary significantly by region, reflecting different regulatory environments and cultural practices.

European Hallmarking Systems

European gold often features comprehensive hallmarking:

British hallmarks – Among the most complex, featuring multiple stamps indicating purity, assay office, date, and maker
French poinçons – Include the distinctive eagle head for 18K gold
German hallmarks – Often feature a crown with sun symbol alongside purity marks

North American Markings

American and Canadian systems tend to be simpler:

U.S. marks – Typically just purity (14K) and maker’s mark, with no national system
Canadian marks – Similar to U.S. but often include “Canada” or “Canadian Gold”
Mexican marks – Usually feature “Mexico” or “Mex” alongside purity

Asian Marking Systems

Gold from Asian countries often follows unique conventions:

Chinese gold – Often marked with 999, 990, or 916 for 24K, 23K, or 22K gold
Indian gold – Traditionally uses higher purity (22K or 24K) with “916” or “999” marks
Japanese gold – May use both Western numerals and traditional character marks

According to the International Association of Assay Offices, understanding these regional variations is crucial for proper identification and valuation of international gold items.

Authentication Marks and Security Features

As counterfeit concerns have increased, some gold items include additional security markings:

Laser inscriptions – Microscopic engravings, often on higher-end pieces
Holographic stamps – Applied to packaging or certificates
Serial numbers – Particularly on investment gold and limited editions
Authentication QR codes – Linking to online verification systems

These modern authentication features are becoming increasingly common in newer high-end gold jewelry sold in the Dallas market.

Specific Dallas Market Observations

In the Dallas market, we see a particularly interesting mix of gold markings reflecting our diverse population:

Mexican gold imports with distinctive purity standards often appearing as “10K M” or “14K Mex”
Asian 24K jewelry popular in our significant Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indian communities
Texas-themed designer pieces with maker’s marks from local artisans
European luxury brands catering to our high-end Highland Park and Preston Hollow clientele

Vintage and Antique Gold Marking Systems

Older gold items often feature marking systems that differ from modern standards.

Pre-1950s American Markings

Vintage American gold may include:

“U.S. assay” markings on older coins and ingots
Simpler maker’s marks often with full names rather than initials
Patent dates rather than copyright symbols
Old company names that have since changed through mergers or acquisitions

European Antique Hallmarks

Antique European pieces often feature:

Date letter systems indicating the exact year of manufacture
Monarch or regime stamps showing the historical period
Guild marks from craftsmen associations
Tax stamps from various historical periods

Obsolete Purity Standards

Some older markings indicate gold purities no longer in common use:

15 carat (62.5% gold) – Used in Britain until 1932
12 carat (50% gold) – Used historically in some European countries
8 carat (33.3% gold) – Still found in older German pieces

The Antique Jewelry University notes that these historical marking systems often provide valuable information for dating and authenticating period pieces.

Identifying Unmarked Gold

Not all authentic gold items bear markings. Some pieces may:

Be too small to mark (earring backs, small links)
Have had marks worn away through use
Predate consistent marking practices
Come from regions without strict marking requirements

For these items, professional testing methods become essential for verification:

Acid testing to verify gold content
Electronic gold testers for quick assessment
XRF (X-ray fluorescence) analysis for precise composition
Specific gravity testing for density verification

Common Misunderstandings About Gold Markings

Several misconceptions about gold markings frequently lead to confusion:

“Plumb Gold” Misunderstandings

The term “plumb” (sometimes stamped as “14KP” or “18KP”) indicates that the gold content is exactly at or slightly above the stated karat, with no tolerance below. This doesn’t mean higher purity—just precision in meeting the standard.

Stamp Authenticity Questions

A stamp alone doesn’t guarantee authenticity. Counterfeit items often bear false karat or maker’s marks. The marking is an important indicator but should be verified through testing.

Worn or Missing Stamps

The absence of a stamp doesn’t necessarily mean an item isn’t gold. Marks can wear away, particularly on frequently worn pieces like wedding bands or bracelets.

Foreign Mark Confusion

International marks are often misinterpreted. For example, a “585” mark is frequently mistaken for a model number when it actually indicates 14K gold.

Practical Tips for Reading Gold Markings

When examining gold markings, these practical tips can help:

Use magnification – A jeweler’s loupe (10x) makes tiny marks visible
Look in likely locations – Check clasps, inner rings, earring posts, and bracelet edges
Clean the area gently – A soft cloth can remove tarnish obscuring marks
Check all components – Different parts of the same item may have different marks
Compare to reference guides – Online hallmark databases can help identify unusual marks
Consult professionals – Experienced jewelers can often identify marks at a glance

When to Seek Professional Marking Identification

Consider professional help with gold markings when:

Dealing with antique or unusual pieces
Encountering foreign or unfamiliar marking systems
Making significant purchasing decisions
Preparing to sell valuable items
Handling estate or inherited jewelry
Encountering conflicting or confusing marks

Most established jewelers and gold buyers in Dallas offer complimentary mark identification as a professional courtesy.

Understanding gold markings is more than academic knowledge—it directly impacts the value of your items and helps you make informed decisions when buying or selling gold. By familiarizing yourself with these common marking systems, you gain the confidence to assess gold items more accurately and avoid potential misrepresentations in the marketplace.

As we often remind our clients, “The story of your gold is written in its markings—you just need to learn the language to read it.”